Touching down in Stockholm, I felt that familiar mix of anticipation and excitement. The Arlanda Express made getting into the city a breeze, and, with the rare good luck of an early hotel check-in, we found ourselves straight out among the locals. The first order of business: fika at Vete Katten—strong coffee, a generous slice of cake, and the gentle background hum of conversation. Swedish comfort at its finest.
Stockholm’s icons lived up to every expectation. The Vasa Museum is unforgettable; standing in that cool, dim hall, confronted by a nearly 400-year-old ship, is something that stays with you. It’s vast, intricate, and the sense of history is almost tangible. Afterwards, we wandered through the storybook streets of Gamla Stan, letting our guide’s stories bring centuries of life to the cobbles, before hopping a ferry to the calm, green pocket of Skeppsholmen. As our cruise departed, the city slowly gave way to a patchwork of islands and pine forests in the golden light—a truly memorable farewell.
Stepping aboard Viking Neptune, we felt an instant sense of welcome. The ship’s Scandinavian-inspired design is understated, comfortable, and just the right size—about 900 guests—so it never felt crowded but always lively enough. Our deluxe balcony cabin was ready and waiting, with a bottle of champagne on ice and chocolate-dipped strawberries. The details matter—a lens cleaning cloth next to my sunglasses, the personal welcome, and small touches that make you feel genuinely looked after.
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But Neptune’s heart is its crew. The staff are unfailingly professional and warm, greeting us by name, anticipating needs, and treating us more like friends than passengers. Whether at breakfast, in the corridors, or at dinner, it felt like everyone took pride in making each day special, quietly and without fuss.
Meals on board were consistently excellent. Norwegian waffles at Mamsen’s became a bit of a ritual; afternoons meant tea in the Wintergarden, with perfect scones and delicate pastries. Manfredi’s classic Italian dinners were reliably good. Every dining space was relaxed and friendly—a place to linger.
Arriving in Tallinn, Estonia, we were swept up by its medieval charm. The Old Town’s winding lanes, pastel facades, and fairytale towers are instantly captivating. We took our time, ducking into Café Maiasmokk for coffee and cake surrounded by polished wood and local history. Even the unpredictable weather—rain, sun, cold breezes—only seemed to add to the city’s unique mood.
From there, Neptune carried us on to Gdańsk—a city that surprised and delighted at every turn. Walking its rebuilt Old Town, I was struck by the vibrant facades and the sense of resilience woven into its streets. We strolled the Long Market, pausing for coffee and to admire the ornate Neptune Fountain, then wandered along the Motława River with its old-world cranes and lively waterfront. There’s a sense in Gdańsk that history isn’t just preserved, it’s lived—felt in the energy of outdoor cafés, the sound of street musicians, and the friendliness of locals eager to share their city’s story. Gdańsk rewards curiosity, whether you’re ducking into amber shops or tasting pierogi for the very first time.
Rønne, on the Danish island of Bornholm, brought a change of pace. This is a place made for slow walks, peering into little shops, and soaking up the gentle rhythm of local life. There’s no urgent checklist—just the pleasure of being somewhere genuine and unhurried.
One logistical highlight was our day in Berlin. Viking’s private train picked us up right at the ship and delivered us seamlessly into the city’s heart—a travel detail that made the experience truly easy. We saw the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, the moving Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, and the Reichstag. Everything was handled with care and precision, from boarding to return. As with all the shore excursions, getting on and off Neptune was quick and well-organised—very little queuing, clear instructions, and more time to actually enjoy the destination.
Copenhagen was everything I hoped: a city that balances headline sights with moments of everyday life. Our walking tour wound from the Little Mermaid past royal palaces and gardens, then into the city centre before a canal cruise showed us another side of the city—colourful houses, grand churches, and a lively waterfront. Ice cream before heading back to the ship for dinner was the perfect finish.
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Aalborg had its own gentle charm. After exploring the lovely old town on foot, I found what ended up being my favourite coffee of the trip—a small, warm spot that felt instantly welcoming. Cruising down the fjord afterwards was a peaceful, contemplative way to say goodbye.
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Oslo packed a lot in: the Opera House, Vigeland’s eccentric sculptures, the Parliament, and Holmenkollen’s legendary ski jump. After lunch, we wandered through the heart of the city, taking in local neighbourhoods and the everyday pulse of Norwegian life. The next morning, a scenic fjord cruise aboard a quiet electric ferry was a serene way to see the city from the water.
Stavanger and Bergen brought classic Norwegian scenery—and classic Norwegian weather. In Stavanger, a cruise to Pulpit Rock was misty and dramatic, perfect for photos (and for appreciating the power of nature). Bergen gave us both a surprise bonus day and a rain-soaked city tour, but also the chance to enjoy the ship’s spa and a cozy night in the bar as the storm rolled in.
Our last days in Bergen were filled with scenic funicular rides, harbour walks, and a trip up Ulriken mountain for sweeping views. Even with rain and wind, the city’s colourful wharves and lively mood made it clear why Bergen is a Norwegian favourite.
Looking back, what stands out most is the balance: seeing the “big ticket” sights, but also having time for slow wanders, local meals, and moments that don’t make it into the guidebooks. That’s what makes these journeys unforgettable—not just checking off icons, but soaking up real life along the way.
**Post-Cruise Reflection**
If I had to sum up what makes Viking Homelands special, it’s the thoughtful mix of grand cities and iconic sights with stops in small, more local places. It’s a genuinely balanced way to see the Baltic and Scandinavian countries—one that gives you both the pride of saying “I was there” at the famous spots, and the quiet satisfaction of time spent in neighbourhoods, cafés, and along peaceful waterfronts.
For anyone dreaming of a cruise that’s as much about lived experience as it is about landmarks, I can’t recommend this journey—and this ship—enough. Viking Neptune delivers a seamless, welcoming, and enriching way to truly see and feel this remarkable part of the world.
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**Pro tip:** If you’re planning a similar journey, leave space in your itinerary for slow wanders and unscripted moments. The big attractions are worth it—but it’s often the unexpected details that linger the longest.
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About Julie O'Grady, CLIA Cruise Master, and Exclusively Cruising
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