Summer at the Top of the World: My Story Aboard a Quark Arctic Expedition
Have you ever wondered what it genuinely feels like to journey into the Arctic, not as a tourist, but as part of a community of explorers?
For years, I imagined the Arctic as a place reserved for the bold or the lucky—a realm of polar bears and endless light, of icy solitude. After more than two weeks at sea with Quark Expeditions, I know the truth is much more textured, human, and heart-opening.
Short answer: A Quark Arctic summer isn’t just about the wildlife or the landscapes. It’s the unexpected laughter, the quiet support of fellow travellers, and being guided—gently and expertly—by a team that only does polar.
Quick Summary
Before the Ice: The Warmth of Helsinki
Before the polar adventure even began, Helsinki set the tone: easy to navigate, strikingly modern, with a kind of gentle confidence. We wandered beneath copper-topped domes and along bustling harbours, finding the city friendly—if quietly expensive! Even then, I sensed a shift; the anticipation among our group at the pre-cruise hotel was contagious. Tomorrow, we’d meet our fellow explorers, get our briefing, and take our first steps toward the ice.
The Charter to Svalbard: Nerves, Excitement, and New Friends
The morning of our flight, everything felt heightened. There’s a certain hush on a charter like this—everyone looking out the window, searching for the first glimpse of Svalbard’s otherworldly coastline. Arrival is a blur of smiles, luggage, and the Quark team greeting us with the calm assurance that comes from thirty years in the polar regions.
That first night, sleep proved impossible. Just as I crawled into bed, an announcement cut through the stillness: blue whales had been sighted. Within minutes, we were all out on deck in the endless Arctic twilight, bundled in parkas, eyes wide. There’s a kind of unguarded joy among strangers when something wild and rare appears. For me, that’s when I knew—I’d found my people.
The Rhythm of the Arctic: Every Plan is a Suggestion
Expedition cruising in the Arctic means learning to let go. One morning, we prepared for a walk at Kapp Lee, only to spot two polar bears along our intended route. Within minutes, the Quark team had shifted plans—no one panicked, no one grumbled. Instead, we watched the bears from the safety of the ship, the guides’ calm voices narrating as we pressed binoculars to eyes
That day, and the one after, polar bears kept appearing—six in a single day, then seven more as we cruised by zodiac, their movements both languid and electrifying. Someone joked that we’d been “too lucky.” For me, it was humbling, a reminder that in the Arctic, we’re always visitors, quietly guided by the wild.
And then—moments of tenderness: watching an arctic fox cub weave through the rocks, the guides pulling the barrier rope in, their concern genuine and gentle. These weren’t “tourist moments”—they were moments of real care, of being held as part of the ecosystem.
The Small Ship Difference: Connection on Every Deck
One thing about Quark: on a small ship, you aren’t a face in the crowd. You’re part of a temporary family—swapping stories over breakfast, celebrating the crossing of the 80th parallel, even cheering the bravest (not me!) during the Polar Plunge. The expedition leaders felt less like staff, more like wise friends—experts in marine biology, geology, and safety, yes, but also passionate people, always ready to answer questions or just share a quiet moment on deck.
There was comfort in their confidence. Whether we were navigating choppy seas near Jan Mayen or turning off our devices in Ny-Ålesund for the sake of scientific research, I always felt guided—not just “managed.” The decision to squeeze in extra days in Svalbard, to flex with the weather, reflected a trust in the team and in nature’s rhythms.
Human Moments, Unexpected Joy
I’ll never forget the first sip of hot chocolate (with a splash of Baileys) as we sailed among icebergs, the mist softening the horizon. Or the stop in Ittoqqoortoomilit, a Greenlandic community of just a few hundred. We wandered through the museum and church, picking up souvenirs, waving at children. It was a reminder that the Arctic is not just wilderness—it’s home, too.
Other days, the joy was quieter: a towel-folding demonstration on a foggy sea day, laughter echoing in the lounge, the comfort of routine amid so much newness.
And almost always, nature delivered: four blue whales gliding past in calm seas, arctic terns swooping over their chicks, the midnight sun refusing to set.
What Lasts: The Feeling of Belonging
On the last morning, as we arrived in Reykjavik, I was struck by how quickly the isolation of the Arctic had become a kind of comfort. The city felt jarring—busy, loud, a world away from the quiet, confident guidance I’d felt from the Quark team and my fellow travellers.
Looking back, what I remember most isn’t a single bear or iceberg, but the feeling of being held: by the ship, by the team, by the wild. If you’re dreaming of an Arctic summer, trust that it’s not just the place you’ll remember, but the way it makes you feel—confident, calm, and connected.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What if the weather changes my plans? A: That’s part of the experience—and often when the best stories happen. With Quark’s decades of expertise, you’ll always feel safe and cared for.
Q: Am I “fit enough” for this kind of trip? A: Activities vary for all levels. From gentle zodiac rides to more active hikes, you choose your comfort level. There’s no pressure—just encouragement.
Q: Is it easy to meet people? A: Absolutely. The small ship creates a sense of community. Genuine conversations happen every day, and the guides are approachable, friendly, and deeply knowledgeable.
Q: Will I really see wildlife? A: Nature decides, but on my trip, we saw more polar bears, whales, and foxes than I could have hoped for. Still, every sighting felt special, never guaranteed.
Start dreaming about your next adventure—because in the Arctic, you won’t just see something new. You’ll feel it. You’ll be held by it. And you’ll remember that feeling, long after you return home.
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About Julie O'Grady, CLIA Cruise Master, and Exclusively Cruising
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