Some journeys leave an imprint on your heart long before they ever unfold in real time. For us, the Sub-Antarctic Islands—those remote, fiercely protected lands scattered across the Southern Ocean—were a dream that waited patiently, growing stronger with every passing year and every change of plan.
Our adventure began with a gentle but awe-inspiring introduction: cruising through New Zealand’s legendary Fiordland. Milford Sound greeted us with sheer cliffs veiled in mist, waterfalls plunging into glassy water, and dolphins playing at the bow. Dusky Sound and Doubtful Sound followed—each quieter and more untamed, their ancient forests home to rare birds and a sense of serene isolation. These moments set the emotional tone: wonder, anticipation, and a sense of being cradled by nature’s grandeur.
From the calm embrace of the fjords, Le Soléal turned her bow south. As the land faded and the Southern Ocean opened before us, the real adventure began. There’s something deeply humbling about crossing these wild latitudes—a physical and emotional journey that reminds you how rare and precious this opportunity is.
Each Sub-Antarctic island we visited offered its own surprises. The Snares, lush and shielded from humanity, felt lost to another time, its birdlife utterly fearless. The Auckland Islands revealed dramatic cliffs and meadows of giant, colourful megaherbs—plants found nowhere else on earth. Unfortunately we didn't make Campbell Island, to see the Southern Royal Albatross nests. We did however see them from the ship, their vast wings casting shadows against a sky that felt endless.
But the heart-beat of the journey was Macquarie Island. A World Heritage site, Macquarie welcomes fewer than 1,000 visitors each year. Setting foot here is a privilege and when you do, you understand why: the shore is alive with the calls of hundreds of thousands of king and royal penguins, elephant seals stretched luxuriously across the volcanic sand, and windswept hills once scarred now quietly healing from decades of careful conservation. I had read about Macquarie’s restoration for years, but witnessing it—the lush regrowth, the teeming wildlife—was nothing short of moving.
What made this epic journey possible, and so deeply enjoyable, was Ponant’s uniquely thoughtful approach to expedition cruising. This isn’t a cruise in the traditional sense. It’s immersive, adventurous, and intimate. Zodiac landings allow you to step ashore in small groups, always with expert guides ready to reveal hidden wonders—a rare sea lion pup, a delicate wildflower, a moment of stillness in a world few will ever see. And after every wind-battered landing, you return to warmth: attentive service, delicious meals, and spaces designed for reflection and connection.
Ponant’s team create an atmosphere where you feel not just safe, but genuinely cared for. Changes in weather or itinerary aren’t brushed aside—they’re explained, and made part of the adventure, so you feel informed and valued every step of the way. You’re part of a small, supportive community, sharing in something extraordinary.
If you’ve ever dreamed of venturing truly off the map—standing where almost no one else has, surrounded by wildlife rarely seen, and letting nature remind you of what’s precious—this is that journey. The patience it takes to get there only adds to the sense of wonder.
If you’d like to know what it’s really like, or want help planning your own Sub-Antarctic adventure, I’m here to share my experience and support you every step of the way.
Contact Julie at Exclusively Cruising on 03 9762 2799 or cruise@exclusivelycruising.com.au. Let’s make your dream journey feel not just possible, but personal.
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About Julie O'Grady, CLIA Cruise Master, and Exclusively Cruising
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