A Passage Through Eastern Europe with Viking – A Journey Full of Surprises
From Bucharest to Budapest, exploring a fascinating part of Europe along the Danube.
I've always enjoyed exploring different parts of Europe, and this time I was particularly looking forward to discovering a region I hadn't seen quite so much of. Our journey would take us from Bucharest in Romania through Bulgaria and Serbia, eventually finishing in Budapest, Hungary, on Viking's Passage to Eastern Europe itinerary.
As with any trip, there were a few surprises along the way. In fact, this one didn't quite go according to plan from the very beginning, thanks to unusually low water levels on the Danube. But that's part of travelling, isn't it? Sometimes you just have to be flexible, make the most of what's on offer and enjoy the experience.
And we certainly did!
First Stop – Bucharest, Romania
After our long journey from Melbourne via Singapore and Istanbul, we finally arrived in Bucharest, where we had a couple of days to explore before joining Viking.
Bucharest was an interesting introduction to Romania. There's quite a contrast between the older buildings, the grand architecture and the modern shopping centres, and we thoroughly enjoyed getting out and seeing it all.
We spent our first full day exploring the Old Town and surrounding areas on foot, taking in some of the city's landmarks and wandering through the streets. We also managed a visit to the enormous AFI Cotroceni shopping centre, and by the end of the day we'd clocked up more than 26,000 steps. Not a bad effort for our first day!
One of the things I enjoy about travelling independently is working out the local transport. We made good use of Bolt and even ventured onto the local buses, which proved to be a convenient way of getting around.
Our second day was a little more relaxed. We explored another part of the city, took a look at the impressive new cathedral and even found time for a massage before an early dinner.
It was a lovely way to begin our Eastern European adventure.
A Slight Change of Plans!
When we booked this cruise, the plan was to travel by coach from Bucharest to the river and then enjoy our journey along the Danube aboard our Viking longship.
However, the river had other ideas!
Water levels were particularly low, which meant Viking had to make adjustments to the itinerary. Instead of embarking at the originally planned location, we had a coach journey of approximately five hours to Turnu Severin, where our ship was waiting.
Naturally, everyone hopes their river cruise will operate exactly as advertised, but river cruising is very much dependent on Mother Nature.
The important thing was that we were still able to visit the destinations on our itinerary, even if some of the logistics needed to change.
Once we arrived, we settled into our ship, enjoyed lunch and took the opportunity to wander around the local town.
We knew at this point that we'd have approximately six nights aboard rather than the full scheduled cruise, with Viking arranging additional accommodation in Budapest at the end.
It wasn't quite the itinerary we'd expected, but we were looking forward to what was ahead.
Bulgaria – Fortresses, Rock Formations and Wine
One of our first full-day excursions took us into Bulgaria to visit the spectacular Belogradchik Fortress and Rocks.
This was certainly one of the highlights of the journey.
The fortress is built amongst these enormous natural rock formations, and it's quite remarkable how the structures have been incorporated into the landscape.
There's a fair bit of walking and climbing involved, but the views are well worth the effort.
After exploring the fortress, we enjoyed lunch before continuing to Dos Alamos Winery for a tasting of four local wines.
It was a lovely combination of history, scenery and a little local hospitality, and a great introduction to Bulgaria.
Cruising Through the Iron Gates
One of the sections of the Danube I'd particularly been looking forward to was the Iron Gates, and it certainly didn't disappoint.
We travelled through the impressive Iron Gate I lock, which was interesting in itself, before continuing through some beautiful river scenery.
The following day we enjoyed cruising through the Iron Gates Gorge, one of the most scenic sections of the Danube.
It's an area where the river winds between dramatic cliffs, with Romania on one bank and Serbia on the other.
It really is quite spectacular, and one of those places where it's lovely just to sit back, relax and watch the scenery pass by.
We also had the opportunity to visit Orșova and the historic spa town of Băile Herculane, known for its thermal baths.
The weather had been surprisingly warm, with temperatures reaching around 33 degrees on one of our days, so we certainly hadn't needed the warmer clothing we'd packed!
Another memorable stop was Golubac Fortress, standing right on the banks of the Danube. It's a wonderfully positioned medieval fortress, and quite a sight as you approach from the river.
That evening Viking hosted a Bulgarian-themed dinner, followed by a bit of trivia. It's always nice to have some fun onboard after a busy day sightseeing.
Discovering Belgrade, Serbia
Our next major destination was Belgrade, the capital of Serbia.
I found Belgrade a really interesting city, with quite a mix of history, architecture and modern-day life.
We visited Kalemegdan Fortress, which overlooks the meeting point of the Danube and Sava rivers. It's a large complex with lovely views and plenty of history.
From there we explored the pedestrian shopping precinct before visiting the magnificent Church of Saint Sava.
This is an enormous Orthodox church, and the interior is absolutely stunning.
Of course, sightseeing also requires the occasional refreshment stop!
We called into the historic Hotel Moskva, where we sampled some of its famous cake, and later visited the quirky Question Mark tavern, one of the city's oldest traditional establishments.
It's often these little stops that make a day memorable, as much as the major sightseeing attractions.
We also happened across a local wedding celebration, which added another interesting little glimpse into life in Belgrade.
By the end of the day we'd certainly done our fair share of walking!
Novi Sad – Another Side of Serbia
Our next excursion took us to Novi Sad, Serbia's second-largest city.
We visited Petrovaradin Fortress, which sits high above the Danube and provides wonderful views across the city and river.
We then spent time exploring the attractive old town, with its beautifully restored buildings, pedestrian streets and lively squares.
We visited the synagogue, wandered through the local market and, naturally, had to sample a local doughnut speciality along the way.
Novi Sad had a very different atmosphere from Belgrade, and it was lovely to experience another side of Serbia.
That evening we returned to the ship for farewell drinks and the Captain's Dinner.
It seemed strange to be saying goodbye to our ship earlier than originally planned, but because of the low water levels, the final part of our journey would now be by road.
The Long Road to Budapest
The following morning we disembarked and began what would become quite a long day travelling towards Budapest.
Our journey took us through the Serbian countryside, with a stop in Osijek in Croatia, before continuing into Hungary.
Crossing international borders by coach can be time-consuming, and with the additional border formalities, it was a fairly lengthy day.
We eventually arrived in Budapest at around 7pm.
It had certainly been a long transfer, but Viking had arranged hotel accommodation for us, and we were pleased to finally arrive and settle in.
We rounded off the evening with dinner at Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill.
Although the changes to the itinerary meant less time cruising than we'd originally anticipated, Viking had managed to keep the sightseeing programme going, and we'd still experienced some fascinating destinations, and let’s face it – it wasn’t their fault the water levels were so low.
Budapest – A Wonderful Place to Finish
It had been around 21 years since my last visit to Budapest, so I was really looking forward to spending some time exploring the city again.
And I have to say, Budapest really is a beautiful city.
We began with a city sightseeing tour, revisiting some of the major landmarks and getting our bearings.
One stop was the Great Market Hall, where we enjoyed some traditional Hungarian lángos and apple strudel. I do think sampling the local specialities is an important part of travelling!
We also visited Heroes' Square and other well-known sights before enjoying a traditional schnitzel dinner.
That evening we took a cruise along the Danube to see Budapest illuminated at night.
If you're visiting Budapest, this is something I'd highly recommend.
The Parliament Building, bridges and other major landmarks are beautifully lit, and the view from the river is quite magical.
It's certainly one of the most memorable ways to see the city.
Exploring the Buda Side
With our organised tour completed, we decided to spend our next day exploring the Buda side of the city independently.
We walked across the famous Chain Bridge and caught the funicular railway up to the Castle District.
From there we spent hours wandering around the historic area, visiting Matthias Church, Fisherman's Bastion, Buda Tower and the palace precinct.
The views across the Danube towards the magnificent Parliament Building are just beautiful.
We also explored the area around Sándor Palace and the Royal Palace before eventually making our way back across the river.
By the time we'd finished, we'd managed more than 20,000 steps!
A well-earned drink at a rooftop bar was definitely in order, followed by dinner at a local restaurant and even a stop at an Irish pub.
It's amazing how much ground you can cover when you're enjoying yourself.
And Then There Was Pest
For our final full day in Budapest, we concentrated on the Pest side of the river.
We began with a visit to the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial, a simple but very moving reminder of the city's wartime history.
From there we continued to the magnificent Parliament Building, Liberty Square and St Stephen's Basilica.
We spent quite a bit of time wandering through the pedestrian shopping areas, browsing the shops and enjoying the atmosphere.
We also caught the Number 2 tram, which runs along the river and provides some wonderful views of the city and it reportedly one of Europe’s most scenic tram routes.
It's a great little sightseeing experience and a good way to see Budapest from a slightly different perspective.
That evening we caught up with some of the lovely people we'd met during our Viking cruise and enjoyed dinner together near the Basilica.
That's another aspect of travelling that I really enjoy — the people you meet along the way and the friendships that can develop over a relatively short time.
The following morning we were off to Vienna by train, ready for the next stage of our European adventure.
So, What Did I Think of Viking's Passage to Eastern Europe?
This was certainly an interesting journey, and one that took us through parts of Europe that aren't always at the top of everyone's travel list.
I particularly enjoyed the opportunity to visit Romania, Bulgaria and Serbia, to learn more about their history and to experience places that are quite different from the more familiar destinations of Western Europe.
The scenery through the Iron Gates was a real highlight, and I loved exploring the historic fortresses, local towns and cities along the way.
Of course, the low water levels did affect our experience. We had fewer nights aboard than originally planned, and some of the journey had to be completed by coach rather than ship.
It's an important reminder that river cruising comes with some variables, particularly when it comes to water levels.
However, we still saw a great deal, experienced some wonderful excursions and enjoyed our time aboard Viking.
If anything, the journey reinforced how important it is to travel with an open mind and a little flexibility.
Would I recommend this itinerary? Absolutely, particularly for travellers who enjoy history, different cultures and exploring destinations a little further off the traditional tourist trail.
Just be aware that this is a journey where the destinations and experiences ashore are every bit as important as the cruising itself.
And as for Budapest? I could quite happily have spent another few days there!
Until the next adventure!
Julie O'Grady
Exclusively Cruising
CLIA Cruise Master
If you're considering a European river cruise, whether it's along the Danube, Rhine or one of Europe's other beautiful waterways, I'd be delighted to help you explore the options and find an itinerary that's right for you.
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About Julie O'Grady, CLIA Cruise Master, and Exclusively Cruising
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